Connection of pieces of shoe stock



Jan. 23, 1923. v

' 1,442,870 PI H. FRAHER.

CONNECTION OF PuzcEs 0F SHOE STocK.

FILED AN. 28 I918v Q I Wyn/747R Patented Jan. 23, 1923.

STATS PHILIP H. FRAHER, OF HOLBROOK, MAS MACHINERY CORPORATION, OF PATE NEW JERSEY.

SACHUSETTS, ASSIGNOR TO UNITED SHOE RSON, NEW JERSEY, A CORPORATION OF CONNECTION OF PIECES OF SHOE STOCK.

Application filed January 28, 1918.

7 '0 all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, PHILIP H. FRAHER, a citizen of the United States, residing at Holbrook, in the county of Norfolk and State of Massachusetts, have invented certain Improvements in the Connection of Pieces of Shoe Stock, of which the follow ing description, in connection with the accompanying drawings, is a specification. like reference characters on the drawings indicating like parts in the several figures.

This invention relates to the connection of pieces of shoe stock in the manufacture of shoes and more particularly to the assem bling of pieces of shoe stock and the formation of a metallic seam or seams connecting said pieces.

An object of the invention is to improve the connection of pieces of shoe stock by the use of metallic fastenings to form a tight and durable attaching or reinforcing seam which readily permits the flexure of the connected parts in the direction of the seam to accommodate the movements of the foot of the wearer, and whichprevents the ripping of the attached parts from each other. In the practice of the invention. a seam is produced which maintains a wide strip of the attached piece of shoe stock against flexure in a direction transverse to the line of the seam and the edge of the piece of shoe stock, making practically impossible the opening up of the seam. The making of such a seam in attaching heel seats is of particular importance as will be more fully explained hereinafter.

An important feature of the present invention resides in inserting metallic fastenings having heads which are relatively long as compared to their widths with the long dimensions of their heads disposed trans 'QISBl Y of the edge of the stock in accord ance with systematic arrangement produc ing tight seam capable of easy flexure in the direction of the seam. Preferably and as illustrated, the shanks of the fastenings are formed with their longest transverse cross-sectional dimensions in the direction. of the longest dimensions of their heads and with their smallest transverse crosssectional dimensions in the direction of smaller dimensions of the heads.

In accordance with another feature of the invention, the metallic fastenings used are Serial No. 214,128.

formed with their head portions extending from one side only of theirshanks and are inserted into the shoe stock so that their head portions extend toward the edge of the attached piece of shoe stock, the heads of the fastenings being preferably undercut so that the under sides of the heads which extend at an angle to the upper portions of the shanks of the fastenings overhang the strip of shoe stock lying between the edge of the shoe stock and the line of the seam formed by the fastenings.

A further and more particular feature of the invention consists in clinching the points of the fastenings into the shoe stock in a direction away from the edge of the piece of stock and away from the sides of the shanks of the fastenings from which the heads project. This feature of the invention permits the heads of the fastenings to be brought close to the edge of the piece of shoe stock in which the seam is formed, thus reducing the width of the strip of stock be tween the edge of the piece of stock and the attaching or reinforcing seam.

In attaching pieces of stock together for bottoming shoes it is sometimes desirable to position the fastenings with their shanks inclined to the edges of the pieces of shoe stock. Such arrangement of the fastenings permits the heads thereof to be brought as close as possible to the edge of the attached piece of shoe stock at the same time permitting the points of the fastenings to be clinched firmly into the stock.

Other objects and features of the invention will be apparent as the description proceeds.

In the drawings:

Fig. 1 illustrates the application of the improved method to the attachment of a weltto upper and insole:

Fig. 2 is, in part, a cross section taken along the line of Fig. 1 showing the points of the welt attaching fastenings clinched in a direction away from the edge of the insole. and illustrating further the application of this invention to the attachment of an outsole to the welt;

Fig. 3 is a cross section taken along the line 3 3 of Fig. 1 showing the points of the fastenings clinched in the direction of the edge of the shoe and of the seam;

Fig. 4: illustrates the application of the heads.

ing inserting instrumentality.

the

and

Fig. '9 illustrates the types of 'l astenings preferably employed in the. practice of the invention.

In carrying out the method of this appli cation, an insole designated A in the drawing is tacked to the bottom, of a. last in the usual manner. The upper B is then slipped.

over the last and the margin of the upper B is pulled over the edge of the insole A and tacked thereto. In the makingof a welt 51109,,"3 welt C is then attached to the upper and insole by metallic 'tasteiniin s D.

rrsshown in Figs. land 9 of the drawings, the fastenings D are formed with heads which are relatively long as tempered to their widths, and with tapering shanks havinn their transverse cross-sectional dimensions indicated'at "(Fig 9) in the plane of the long din'iensions ot the heads longrer than their transverse cross sectional dimensions t in the plane of the widths of the The heads of the tasteningrs are formed with their under sides arranged at anangle to the upper portions oi the shanks of the fastenings so as to overhang a portion ofthe stock into which they are (lllYGlL It is considered preferable that the under sides of the headset the 'lastenings be positioned at right angles to the shanks of the fastenings as indicated at 2 (Fig. 9). The heads may, however, be formed with their under sides inclined to the shanks of the lastening's indicated at 3.

The fastening's l) are inserted into the welt C preferably successively and are arranged systematically so that the lone dimensions of their heads are disposed at intervals transversely of the edge of the shoe and substantially at right angles thereto,

the spacing oi" the l astenings being preterably obtained by effecting relative movement of the work: and the fastening inserting instrumentality alternately with the fastening inserting operations ol the lastcn- 1 It is recognized, however. that the practice of the invention, is not restricted to the particular manner oi? assembling the pieces of shoe stock described 'above'or to the insertion of the fastenings successively, since the parts may he otherwiseassembledor a plurality or all of the "fastenings forming the seam may be inserted simultaneously Within the scope of the invention. A machine for inserting tastenings oi the kind illustrated from a string otsuch iastenings is disclosed in the appliation of George Goddu and Fred 'L. Mackenzie, Serial No. 137,571, filed Dec. 18, 1916.

The shoe ismompleted; after the attach ment of the welt to the upper and insole in the manner above: described, by attaching an outsole E to the welt C. This is done by means of a. seam composed of metallic tastenings I) inserted in accordance with this invention with the long dimensions of their heads disposed transversely of the edge of the outsole. The space between the outsole and insole is filled in the usual manner.

As shown, the tastenings D are of a form .commonly denominated string nails having their heads projecting from one side only of their shanks, and the fastenings are so ar ranged that their heads extend from the sides of their shanks toward the outer edge of the welt and of the outsole. By reason of such arangement of the tastenings, a very tight seam is produced. Moreover, any stress exerted on the outer edge of the welt or out sole tending to loosen either of the seams or to ripthe welt or outsoleover the heads of the 'lt'astenings is resisted to the maximum degree by the projecting heads of the fastenings. By reference to Fig. 2, it will be seen that any stress exerted on the outer edge of the welt C oroutsole It will be transmitted directly to the under surfaces of the heads of the fastenings, which, as pre viously stated. are arranged at such an angle to the upper portions of the shanks ot' the fastening's that the heads of the fastenings overhang a portion of the stock into which they are inserted. Fastenings arranged in the manner above described for attaching welt may have their heads extended even beyond the plane of the edge'of the insole indicated. by the line :r-m in Fig. 2. As illustrated in Fig. 2, the tastenings D of the welt attaching, seam; are clinched in a direction away from. the edge of the insole perinittinn' the tasteninns to be driven very close to the edge oi theinsole and still be strongly clinched into the material of the insole. The more closely the .lastenings may be driven to the edge of the insole and still be firm y clinCheChthe more closely the free ends of the heads of the :tastenings may he brought to the edge of the welt and the tighten is the seam that is formed by the 't'astenin g's. ing of the kind illustrated will resist to the greatest degree a force exerted in the direc tion of the head 01 the fastening on the side of the shank of the fastening from which the head extends, hereinafter sometimes It will. be noted that a fast-era.

formed bet-weerfthe adjacent fastening is recognized that the principles of t ferred to as the back side and indicated at L in Figs. 2 and 4t. Fastenings positioned in accordance with the present method have their heads extending from the sides of their shanks along wh-icha force tending to rip the welt or outsole over the heads of the fastenings is most likely to be exerted and so that any other stress which may tend to pull the Welter outsole away from the upper. and insole will be exertedalong the sides of the fastenings adjacent to the side from which the head extends and so that no stress can be exerted along the sides of the fasten ings opposite those from which the heads extend.

Althoughthe fastenings have been hereinbefore described as being of the form. wherein the heads extend from one side only of their shanks and as being arranged with their heads extending from the sides of their shanks toward the edge of the welt or outsole, the invention in certain of its aspects is not limited. to these features. The fastenin'gs may be of a form having overhanging head portions on more than one side of their shanks; for example, they may have head portions extending on opposite sides of their shanks, but in such case one of such portions of the head will extend from the side of the shank towards the edge of the welt or outsole so as to overhang the welt or outsole. Moreover, the fastenings may be arranged with their head portions extending from the sides of the fastenings away from the outer edge of the welt or outsole. The long dimensions of the heads and shanks of the fastenings would then, extend transversely of the edge; ofthe welt or outsole, resulting in the fasteningsbeing spaced apart by the maxi.-

mum. distance. A relatively large space is thus afforded between adjacent fastenings compared to the small dimensions of the heads and she! of the fastenings, the spaces being -large enough to permit ready flexing of the parts in wh ch the seam is It he iuvention can be applied in various ways pan ticula rly as regards the shape and arrangement of the fasteningsyto achieve the sults of the invention either wholly or part, for which reason the scope of the inrentiou intended to be hunted eny by the appended claims.

1 The systematicarrangement of the fastenings' whereby all the fastenings have the 'vention to heel seat nailing.

long din'iensions of their heads disposed transversely of the edge of the welt or outsole is an ii'nportant feature of the invention. If some of the fastenings of the seam are not arranged in accordance with the invention, the seam will not only be impaired at such points, but a portion of the seam which is tight and strong may be opened by reason of the opening of a weaker portion of the seam. li iioreover, if one part of the seam is not readily flexible in the direction of the seam to accommodate itself to the movement of the foot of the wearer, the advantages obtained by making other portions of the seam readily flexible are in great part lost.

Although the points of the fastenings of the welt attaching seam preferably clinched in a direction away from the edge of the insole, and the points of the fastenings of the outsole attaching seam are preferably clinched in a direction away from the edge of the welt, as shown at H in Figs. 2 and at, many of the advantages of the invention may be obtained if the points of the fastenl.

ings clinched in other directions, for example, in the line of the seam as indicated at 7:, in Fig. 3 or toward the edge of the insole or welt instead of away from it.

As illustratedin F l otthe drawings, the out-sole E is directly attached to the upper B and insole A by metallic seam formed in. accordance with the invention. The heads of the fastenings extend beyond the plane of the edge of the insole indicated by the line 7 i In this application of the invention also, the points of the fastenings are preferably clinched in a direction away from the edge of the insole, as shown,

and the fastenings are arranged with their backs L faced away from the adjacent edge of the outsole toward the body of the out sole, which, of course, extends from one side of. the shoe to the other so that no permitted. between the heads of the fasten- Fi Sillustrates the application of the in In this nlication of the invention. the fasten l) are inserted through the heel seat of outsole E, the upper l3, and the insole .i

the to form a seam of spaced fasteniiiigs or attaching the heel seat to the upper an d insole.

After the attachment of the heel seat to the upper and insole, the heel is secured to the heel seat by nails which pass Within of the seam and the edge of the sole.

the curve defined by the heel seat'nails. The heel and heel seat are then trimmed. The trimming tool has a runner which moves in the angle formed by the upper surface of the margin of the heel seat and the upper B operating to guide and position the tool properly during the heel trimming operation. This runner has a tendency to loosen the seam which attaches the heel seat to the upper and insole. This tendency of the runner to loosen the seam is accentuated by the pressure of, the trimming tool on the contour edge of the heel which is transmitted to the heel seat through the heel attaching nails. The resultant loosening of the seam, when the heel seat is attached by known methods, frequently causes imperfect operation of the heel trimming tool. The finished heel, therefore, is frequently rough and unsymmetri "al, and, in addition, the loose seam at the heel seat detracts from the wearing qualities of the shoe.

When the heel seat is attached to the upper and insole in accordance with this invention, the force exerted by the runner and trimming tool is transmitted directly to the under sides of the overhanging heads of the fastenings in such manner that no loosening of the seam takes place during the operation of trimming the heel. The heel trimming operation is thereby rendered more perfect resulting in the production of a smooth synnnetrical heel, and the wearing qualities of the shoe are unimpaired By reference to Fig. 7 it will be seen that when a heel seat is attached by fastenings inserted in accordance with the present invention, a wide strip of thesole near its margin lying within the broken lines cc and (Z- Z of Fig. 7 is maintained against flexure in a direction transverse to the line This portion of the outsole extends close to the edge of thesole leaving only a small unsupported strip between the line dcl and the edge of the sole. The portion of the sole between the lines cc and (Z-(Z is so large as compared with the portion between the line (]-(Z and the edge of the sole that the last-named portion of the sole, which is not directly supported, is itself substantially inflexible in the direction transverse to the line of the seam, and will not bend along the line of the seam.

The attachment of a heel seat by means of string nails inserted in accordance with knownmethods is illustrated diagrammatically in Fig. 8. I'Id-LI'OW strip intervening between the lines a e and Z -b is maintained against flexure transversely of the line of the seam and a wide strip between the line 6-7) and the edge of the shoe sole is left unsupported, The unsupported -margin-of the sole bends back easily and tends to fold along the narrow line of the seam in the operation of the heel trimming tool. Such a seam ls not tight or strong enough to prevent it from being opened up in the direction of the seam is increased by reason of the larger spaces between the fastenings and the small dimensions of the heads of the fastenings in the line of the seam. Flexure of the sole in a direction transverse to the edge of the sole is undesirable because it tends to open up the seam. It is, however,

very desirable that the sole be readily flexible in the direction of the seam to accommodate itself to the movement of the foot of the wearer.

The fastenings- D may be inserted into the welt or outsole in inclined relation to the surface of the welt or outsole in order that the overhanging heads of the fastenings may be brought closer to the edge of the outsole with the points of the fas-tenings located far enough within the edge of the insoleto .permit a firm clinch to be eifected. In nailing heel seats, the free ends of the heads of the fastenings are spaced at such a distance. from the untrimmed edge of the sole that they will extend nearly to the edge-of the sole when trimmed, but will not be struck by the trimming knives.

In the application of the improved method to channel nailing around the toe of the shoe, the seam formed in accordance withthis invention may take the place of the stitched seam sometimes usedor it may be employed to reinforce the stitched seam. By reference to Fig. 6, it will be noted thatthe outsole E is channeled at F, and the fastenings are driven so that their heads will lie in the channel in a position to be concealed in the finished shoe by the flap G of the channel which is cemented down inthe channel subsequently to the insertion of the fastenings. The fastenings D are herein illustrated as inclined similarly to those shown in Fig. 5.

Having thus described my invention, what I claim as new and desire to secure by United States Letters Patent is:

1. The method of connecting pieces of shoe stock by the use of a seam composed of single pronged metallic 'fastenings having their heads relatively long as compared to their widths, which consists in assembling the pieces of shoe stock, driving the "fasted ings into the pieces of shoe stock with the long dimensions of the heads of the fasten ings disposed transversely ofthe edge of the stock, and clinching said fastenings in a direction transversely of the edge of the stock.

2. The method of connecting pieces of shoe stock by the use of a seam composed of metallic fastenings having their heads relatively long as compared to their widths, which consists in driving the fastenings through the pieces of shoe stock with the long dimensions of the heads of the fastenings dis-posed systematically substantially at right angles to the edge of the stock, and clinching the points of the fastenings into the material of the stock in a direction away from the edge of the stock.

3. The method of connecting pieces of shoe stock by the use of a seam composed of metallic fastenings having their heads projecting from one side only of their shanks and relatively long as compared to their widths, which consists in driving the fastenings through the pieces of shoe stock with the long dimensions of the heads of the fastenings disposed transversely of the edge of the stock and with the heads of the fastenings projecting from their shanks toward the adjacent edge of the stock, and

, clinching the points of the fastenings into the material of the stock in a direction away from the adjacent edge of the stock and on the opposite sides of the shanks from those from which the heads project.

4. The method of connecting an outsole to a piece of shoe stock for bottoming shoes by the use of a seam composed of metallic fastenings each having only a single shank and each having a head of relatively great length as compared to its width, which consists in driving the fastenings through the outsole and the piece of shoe stock so arranged that the long dimensions of the heads of the fastenings are disposed transversely of the edge of the outsole, and clinching the points of the fastenings into the material of the piece of shoe stock transversely of the edge of the stock.

5. The method of connecting pieces of shoe stock for bottoming shoes which consists in assembling an insole, an upper, and a welt, connecting them together by driving metallic fastenings having heads of relatively great length as compared to their widths through said welt, upper, and insole with the long dimensions of the heads of the fastenings disposed transversely of the edge of the Welt, applying an outsole to the assembled insole. upper, and welt, and attaching the outsole to the projecting portion of the welt by a seam composed of metallic fastenings having heads of relatively great length as compared with theirwidths and arranged with the long dimensions of their heads disposed transversely of the edge of the outsole.

6. The method of connecting a welt to an upper and insole by the use of a seam composed of metallic fastenings having heads of relatively great length as compared to their widths, which consists in assembling the welt, upper and insole, and driving the fastenings into the welt, upper and insole so arranged that the long dimensions of the heads of the iastenings are disposed transversely of the edge of the Welt.

'7. The method of connecting an outsole to the welt ot a shoe by means of a seam composed of metallic tastenings having heads of relatively great length as compared to their widths, which consists in driving the fastenings through the outsole and welt systematically arranged so that the long dimensions of the heads of the fastenings are disposed transversely of the edge of the outsole, and clinching the points of the fastenings in a direction toward the upper.

8. The method of connecting pieces of shoe stock by the use of a seam of string nails having heads of relatively great length as compared to their widths projecting from their shanks and formed with their under sides arranged substantially at right angles to the shanks of the nails, which consists in assembling the pieces of shoe stock, and driving the nails into the pieces of shoe stock so arranged that the long dimensions of their heads are disposed substantially at right angles to the edge of the stock and the nail heads overhang a strip of the stock between the line of the seam formed by the nails and the adjacent edge of the stock.

9. The method of connecting pieces of shoe stock by the use of a seam composed of metallic fastenings having heads of relatively great length as compared to their widths, and having shanks formed with their longest transverse cross-sectional dimensions in the plane of the long dimensions of the heads, which consists in assembling the pieces of shoe stock, and driving the fastenings into the stock so arranged that the long dimensions of the heads of the fastenings and the longest transverse cross-sectional dimensions of the shanks of the fastenings are disposed transversely oi the edge of the stock.

10. A shoe having a sole portion and an upper portion connected by a seam composed of single pronged metallic fastenings, each fastening having a head of relatively great length as compared to its width, said fastenings being arranged with the long dimensions or" their heads extending transversely ot the seam.

11. A shoe made up from a plurality of pieces of stock connected by a seam composed oi metallic fastenings, each fastening having a single shank and a head relatively long as compared to its width, said fastenings being arranged with the long dimensions of their heads transversely of the seam. and each fastening being clinched in a direction transversely of the stem.

12. An article of manufacture made up of with the long dimensions of their heads a plurality of sheets of material connected transversely of the seam, each fastening be by a seam composed of driven metallic fasingclinched in a direction transversely of 10 tenings, each fastening having its head eX- the seam. tending upon one side only of its shank In testimony whereof I have signed my and of relatively great length as compared name to this specification. to its Width, the :t'astenings being arranged PHILIP H. FRAHER. 

